Scenes from Northern Burma-- These are rare northern Burma, a part of the world usually closed off to foreigners by the oppressive military junta. I was able to go there because of my special National Geographic connections, but I had a government watcher with me at all times. In this area of the country, massacres, slavery, and forced relocation of hill tribe populations are commonplace.

Kayaking the Upper Irrawaddy River-- I was the first person to kayak the Upper Irrawaddy River of Burma. The daily temperatures were nearly 120F (see photo of my thermometer). I have never kayaked in greater heat--not even when I kayaked through the Sahara to Timbuktu.

Raw Sewage in the Irrawaddy River-- I had to kayak through miles of raw sewage. There are no waste water treatment plants in Burma, so all human excrement ended up in the river.

Gold-Panning along the Upper Irrawaddy River-- People dynamited the sides of the river, then used mercury to collect the gold dust. Not suprisingly, scientists have discovered dangerously high levels of mercury in Irrawaddy wildlife.

Golden Island-- According to historical texts, it was here where the Buddha predicted that an island would rise from the waters of the Irrawaddy River. When it did, the local people followed the Buddha's instructions and built 777 stupas (holy edifices) to consecrate the island. One of Burma's holiest sites is the Buddhist temple on Golden Island; it contains three golden statues that allegedly contain the blood of the Buddha himself.

Sacred Statues-- Inside this cage on Golden Island are the three gold statues believed to contain blood from the historical Buddha. Below is the monk charged with guarding the statues.

Scenes along the Irrawaddy River

Katha Village-- This is the house where British writer George Orwell lived as a colonial officer.

Irrawaddy River Dolphins-- A small section of the Irrawaddy River still contains the rare and highly endangered Irrawaddy River dolphin. For generations, local fishermen have engaged in cooperative fishing with the dolphins. The men call to the animals with a stick and wait as the dolphins round up fish and drive them toward their nets.

Giant Catfish-- Local fishermen caught one of the Irrawaddy's giant catfish, which measured an incredible six feet long. I bought it for $50 and set it free.

Shinupagoda-- The Saint of the Irrawaddy, Shinupagoda is worshipped along the entire river. The locals construct rafts in his honor.

Antiquities and Mammoth Bones Found along the Irrawaddy River

Moulmeingyun-- The town along the Irrawaddy River where I was put under house arrest by local authorities. Luckily, I was released and allowed to complete my journey to the end of the river.

Eya Village-- The last village on the Irrawaddy River. The people in this village had never seen a white person before.

Scenes of Mandalay Town

Gold Leaf-- Men pounded gold for hours, the gold leaf being applied to Mandalay's most sacred Buddhist statues.

Scenes of Ancient Bagan

Nat Pwe-- Homosexuals and transvestites in Burma often become successful "nat pwe" performers, traveling the country in minstrel groups. They learn intricate dances and teach locals about spirits known as "nats." The performers believe that the spirits literally possess them as they dance.

Nat Worship-- Many Burmese people worship a pantheon of spirits known as "nats." This nat worship is an ancient form of animism that exists in tandem with Burmese Buddhism. Below is a picture of Mt. Popa, the "Mt. Olympus" of nat worship.

Buddhist Shinbyu-- All Burmese boys must go through the "shinbyu," a Buddhist initiation rite similar to the Christian confirmation or the Jewish bar mitzva. Boys are shaved and given monk robes, and they spend a week at the local monastery to learn about Buddhism.